Synthetic turf is sold as zero maintenance, and then two summers later it smells, it has gone flat, and the shaded end has gone green.
All three problems live in the same place: the infill.
How the surface is built
Artificial grass is a backing sheet with fibres tufted into it, laid over a compacted base, with a layer of infill brushed between the blades — usually silica sand, sometimes rubber crumb or a coated sand.
The infill does the work. It weighs the turf down, holds the blades upright, protects the backing from UV, and provides the drainage path.
It is also where everything ends up. Dust, pollen, organic debris, and on a pet property, urine. A hose over the top does not reach it.
The smell
Almost always pet urine, and almost always worse in summer.
Urine drains through the turf and into the infill, where the solids and salts stay behind. Bacteria work on it, and heat releases the ammonia. Hosing dilutes the top and leaves the rest.
What works is an enzymatic cleaner designed for synthetic turf. Enzymes digest the organic residue rather than masking it. It needs to be applied generously enough to reach infill depth, left to work, and then rinsed through.
Bicarb helps as a neutraliser. Disinfectant alone does not solve it, because killing the bacteria does not remove what they were feeding on.
On a heavily used pet area, this is a recurring job, not a one-off.
Why not to pressure wash it
Pressure does three things to synthetic turf, all bad.
It blasts the infill out, which is the material holding the blades up and protecting the backing. Once it is gone the turf flattens, wears faster and the backing degrades in UV.
It damages the fibres, which do not recover. Melted or splayed blades stay that way.
It can separate the backing at the seams.
Replacing infill across a lawn is slow and it is not cheap. Keep the pressure washer away from it.
Our earlier piece covers the courts version of this — cleaning synthetic grass and backyard courts.
The green film
Algae and moss grow on synthetic turf in shade, usually on the southern edge or under a tree. The fibres do not feed it — the organic debris trapped in the infill does.
Treat with a dilute biocide suitable for synthetic surfaces, let it work, then rinse. The real fix is removing the debris that feeds it: brush and vacuum the surface regularly so organic matter never builds up.
Which products are safe where is in moss killers — and on turf, nothing iron-based, which stains the fibres permanently.
Routine maintenance
Power brush against the lay of the blades, every few months. This is the single most valuable thing and almost nobody does it. It lifts the blades, redistributes infill, and keeps the surface looking like grass rather than carpet.
Blow or vacuum off leaf litter before it decomposes into the infill.
Rinse through occasionally, particularly on a pet lawn.
Top up infill every few years. It migrates and it gets removed with debris.
Check the drainage. If water is pooling, the base has compacted or the perforations have blocked with fine material. That is a base problem and it needs addressing rather than cleaning.
Heat
Worth knowing: synthetic turf in full Sydney summer sun gets dramatically hotter than real grass — hot enough to be uncomfortable barefoot and a real issue for dogs.
Rinsing cools it temporarily. Shade is the only durable answer, and it is worth factoring in before installing it in a west-facing yard.
Stains and burns
Most spills lift with warm soapy water if treated promptly. Oil and sunscreen need a degreaser.
Heat damage does not come out. A barbecue, a fire pit, a dropped cigarette, or reflected light from a low-E window can all melt the fibres, and the only fix is cutting in a patch.
For the surrounding hard surfaces, see patio cleaning.
